Sunday, May 18, 2008
Food, Wine, Beer & Spirits
’Queer Eye’ alum Ted Allen gives the straight talk on booze
Patrice Ward
Bird’s eye view of Ted Allen at work
By Jason Tesauro and Phineas Mollod
On July 15, 2003, the XY world got a little bit cooler … and a little bit queerer. Bravo launched “Queer Eye for the Straight Guy,” transforming style-needy boors into slick metrosexuals thanks to Kyan, Thom, Carson and Jai’s advice on wardrobe, décor, grooming and lifestyle. And, of course, there was Ted Allen, armed with his cocktail shaker, paring knife and a punchbowlful of food and beverage advice.
We chatted with Ted by phone as he took a break from unpacking boxes after a big move. Yet his suitcases will be back in action soon enough as he travels to cook a special meal for the winner of Alltel Wireless’s “My Circle Reunion” sweepstakes.
Q What are some tips for home mixologists looking to upgrade their entertaining skills?
A Replicate what’s going on in cool nightclubs and restaurants. First, any host can do infusions. Here’s a simple one: one cup of Tequila infused with one seeded, chopped jalapeno. It’s the perfect amount of heat on the back of the palate. You can do it with pineapples, sundried tomatoes, mangos, whatever. I’m seeing more cocktails lovers mixing sweet with savory like a pastry chef, experimenting with rosemary, tarragon and basil. Basil, which is a relative of mint, can essentially be swapped for mint in a recipe.
Rosé is finally catching on, but what else aren’t people drinking enough of?
I like Chartreuse a lot, actually, but the average person is not as relentless an explorer. They’ll say, “I’m a cabernet person,” and that’s all they order. One of my favorite wine regions is Alsace; pinot gris, pinot blanc, gewürztraminer, off-dry wines go great with spicy foods like Thai dishes.
What’s your go-to spirit/drink when on the town at a joint without an inventive bar chef?
Tanqueray and tonic, but even then, there’s always some way to screw it up. Go simple when you’re not sure who’s behind the bar. Maybe a beer is best.
Reamer, jigger, muddler, shaker: how are you set with accoutrements?
I was given a set of sterling bar tools. My most favorite is the tongs. They look like bird talons with handles made of bone. Plus, I have sterling olive picks that add a handsome touch. Having just moved into a new house, I’m still in boxes—including the crystal. Meanwhile, I’ve been drinking wine out of little glasses like the Italians do. Boys love toys, but it’s the ingredients that really matter.
With Memorial Day on the radar, can you recommend some summer cocktails that pair with grilled fare?
Cocktails for me come before the meal. With so many elements in them, spirits attack your palate. I go for wines with astringency and finesse. I was drinking pinot noir before “Sideways” … and now I’m paying more for it. Thanks a lot. [Laughs]
We’d pity you, but this upcoming dinner you’re making sounds awfully fun and sunny. What’s with the sweepstakes?
Alltel Wireless’s “My Circle Reunion.” The “My Circle” plan provides unlimited free calling to any number on any network and the grand prize package features an all-expenses paid “Circle of Friends” vacation for eleven, including dinner prepared by me, at the winner’s choice of Key West, Las Vegas or Palm Springs, Calif. Actually, it’s still going on: Until May 31, “My Circle” customers can enter. Just text CIRCLE to 102102 or visit alltel.com/circlereunion.
And what’s on the menu?
Pulled pork, little sliders as appetizers. Instead of once-in-a-lifetime foods, I’m leaning toward cooking the foods that anyone can cook, and showing them how. My partner’s mom gave me a pressure cooker. Now I can make black beans in thirty minutes without the pre-soak. I’m hoping the winners are people who wouldn’t normally get to do this. SP
Phineas and Jason are the authors of “The Modern Gentleman” and “The Modern Lover.” E-mail them at booze@sundaypaper.com.